February in County Kerry isn’t really trying to impress anyone is it?

Grey skies roll in from nowhere. The wind has an opinion, and rain often arrives sideways. The weather remains unpredictable. But thankfully, evenings are beginning to hold onto the light a little longer, hinting at what’s to come. Even with hourly changes, from sunshine to rain and back again, I still find myself out walking in nature. Pulling on a coat, heading out anyway, and noticing how much is happening beneath the surface, as the land gets ready for brighter days.

It’s not fully spring yet. But it’s close enough to feel it.

Late winter has a particular mood in County Kerry. The tourist season hasn’t kicked in yet. Some businesses are just starting to reopen after closing for winter. The roads are a little quieter. The lakes sit silent and still and there’s a softness to the landscape that doesn’t ask anything of you. No urgency. No performance. Just space.

And space, I’m learning, is where things start to grow.

Walking Through the In-Between

There’s something about walking in nature in February that feels honest. You’re not chasing clear blue skies or perfect light. You’re simply moving through what’s there, witnessing a shift in seasons. A wet path through Killarney National Park. The smell of damp leaves. A robin hopping alongside you at the edge of the trail. Lough Lein, dark and calm. These aren’t walks for counting steps or creating content. They are walks to clear your head and let your shoulders drop. To remember that life doesn’t need to look impressive to be meaningful.

I think many of us are tired after the sharp coldness of winter, not just physically, but mentally. Tired of screens. Tired of noise. Tired of feeling that every moment should be productive, shared, or turned into something else. Walking, especially at this time of year, cuts through that. There’s no soundtrack (apart from birdsong). No filters. No rushing. Just the rhythm of your own steps and the quiet reassurance that the world keeps moving, even when nothing obvious is happening.

The Small Signs That Matter

February in Kerry doesn’t arrive with fireworks. It whispers. And you could miss it all if you’re not paying attention. The evenings stretch by an extra few minutes. Light lingers longer in the sky. Some mornings like up with pink candy coloured clouds. Daffodils appear without announcement. And birdsong returns, quietly at first.

For me, these walks create space. Space for ideas, for clarity, for thoughts I didn’t realise I was holding onto. When I’m outside, especially in this in-between season, my mind quietens. The constant internal commentary lessens. I stop thinking about what I should be doing next and start noticing where I am. And that’s enough.

Why Kerry Feels Different This Time of Year

Kerry in high summer is stunning, there’s no denying that. It is my absolute favourite time of year. But Kerry in late winter and early spring feels more personal. You’re not sharing the path with crowds. You’re not rushing to tick places off a list. You’re walking for the sake of it. Seeing the landscape as it really is, wild, changeable, sometimes moody, often breathtaking in its own understated way. For those who feel a pull toward Ireland, whether you live here or carry it with you from afar, this is the version that often resonates most. Not the postcard image, but the lived-in one. The Ireland of everyday walks, familiar weather, and quiet beauty that doesn’t need explaining.

Making Space Before Life Speeds Up Again

The full force of Spring will arrive soon enough. The days will lengthen. The pace will pick up. Calendars will fill. Life will get louder again. That’s why February matters. It’s a pause between seasons. A chance to walk without expectations. To be outside without an agenda. These walks may not look like much from the outside, but they add up. They become memories. They shape how you feel in your own life. They remind you that you don’t need perfect conditions to step outside, just a willingness to meet the day as it is. As the saying goes, “there is no such thing as bad weather, just unsuitable clothing” – Alfred Wainwright.

If you’re reading this from Ireland, you’ll recognise these days. You’re living them now. And if you’re reading from further away, perhaps with Irish roots or a longing for this place, I hope you can feel them too.

The wind. The damp air. The quiet beauty of a county holding its breath.

This is Kerry in the in-between. Not showy. Not polished. But deeply real.

And sometimes, that’s exactly what we need.

Here are 3 of the walks I would recommend taking.

Muckross to Dinis Loop

This is one of those walks that never really disappoints, the scenery is spectacular at every turn. The path winds along the lake, through woodland that’s just beginning to wake up again. You’ll hear more birds than people. The ground may still be soft in places, and the air carries that damp, earthy smell. Make sure to stop off at the “Meeting of the Waters” along the way (just behind Dinis Cottage). No matter the time of year that particular scene feels like a painting.

Torc Waterfall & Torc Steps

Torc in summer can feel busy. Especially if you’re looking to park out there… In early spring, it feels peaceful. After a wet winter, the waterfall is usually at its strongest…. full, loud, unapologetic. You can hear it before you see it. The spray hangs in the air and the whole place can make you really feel alive.

If you’re up for it, take the steps beside the waterfall. It’s a steady climb, but the view opens up quickly, and the higher you go, the quieter it becomes. There’s something beautiful about standing there with the wind on your face and the National Park stretching out below you. On an early morning walk it wakes you up in the best way.

The Demesne to Knockreer House (and back via Killarney Golf & Fishing Club)

The Demesne in early spring is a sight to see… with its expansive green space, buds forming on trees, and light lingering over the town. Walking up towards Knockreer House and looping back by the golf course gives you that mix of woodland and open views that Killarney does so well. It’s the kind of walk for wandering and taking a longer route than intended.

None of these walks require perfect weather. Just a warm, waterproof coat, good shoes, and a willingness to step outside before everyone else does.